We tend to have a significant Eurocentric focus when we discuss the brewing sciences. However, Victoria Lee’s The Arts of the Microbial World dives into the impact of fermentation on Japan’s culture and government, integrating other history and stories from different parts of Asian culture. Lee paints a vivid picture of the brewing world of yeast, bacteria, and mold as not just microorganisms but also how they are vital contributors to flavor, aroma, and national health.
Molds, such as koji (Aspergillus oryzae), play a crucial role in Japan's health and well-being. They break down organic matter for nutrient cycling in ecosystems and have been used in food production and medicine. Lee's work highlights the importance of Penicillium mold cultivation for the population's health as Japan integrated into the international community post-World Wars. This was not just for the flavors of fermented soy products like tempeh and soy sauce but also for the saccharification of rice for sake, all of which contribute to the health benefits of fermentation in Japanese culture.
After koji, Saccharomyces cerevisiae takes the stage in the production of sake and shochu, a distilled spirit. Sake, made only with rice, uses yeast chosen for delicate flavors and alcohol content. Shochu, on the other hand, is a versatile spirit that can be made with a variety of base ingredients, each with specific yeast strains, to achieve the desired taste and aroma. This diversity in shochu production often represents the distinct regions of Japan through their unique ingredients and flavors.
A significant national concern is the overall nutrition of the Japanese population, which is addressed using fermentation via bacteria. Lactic acid bacteria is utilized in the production of miso, which preserves the soybeans and enhances their nutritional value and flavor complexity. Tetragenococcus halophilus is used in soy sauce fermentation to develop the umami-rich flavor that can take several months to years to produce. Bacillus subtilis creates natto, another fermented soybean food celebrated for its health benefits.
By delving into the different microbes in Japanese fermentation, Lee shows how they are deeply rooted in the country’s history and culture. The meticulous cultivation and utilization of specific microbial strains reflect Japan’s dedication to maintaining and perfecting its traditional food practices, improving community health, and preserving cultural identity.
In Lee’s celebration of the microbial world, we recognize the intricate connections that bind us to these tiny yet mighty organisms, transforming our appreciation of the natural world and our place with it, or better put:
“I merely borrowed the power of microbes”-Ōmura Satoshi
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